In the suffocating pre-dawn heat on the morning of December 2, 2005 drug smuggler Van Tuong Nguyen was executed at the end of a rope in Singapore.
His face was covered and he died alone.
Only prison officials – no family and no press – were allowed inside the execution chamber as the archaic hanging took place. Outside, peering through the outer wall of the drab Changi Prison like children over the back fence, an enormous contingent of international media waited.
6.07am.
Silence.
I was there.

This isn’t a story about the place of capital punishment, or even an analysis of the regenerating, hydra-like drug trade that infects the airports and streets of South east Asia. Nor is it a story about the fate of Van Tuong Nguyen or his family, forced to wait through protracted appeals and diplomatic seizures in an ultimately futile bid to ensure his freedom. This is a story about my first major yarn as a first year cadet journalist: an international story played out on the international stage. The only problem was, of course, that I was most surely not supposed to be there.
Van Nguyen, a Vietnamese Australian, was arrested on March 20 2004 with more than 300g of heroin strapped to his body at Singapore airport. At the same time I was five days into being 17-years-old and completely unaware that a fellow Australia had been captured with enough drugs on his person to incur the death penalty 26-times over. Our paths would very nearly almost cross.
I landed a job straight out of high school as a cadet reporter at the Gold Coast Bulletin – the largest regional daily newspaper in Australia. It featured a full complement of around 80 journalists and sub-editors and another handful of professional photographers. Most, at least in senior positions, were old fashioned, old-school newspapermen and women. My editor at the time was a man who looked suspiciously like a lumberjack and tended to ramble in prolonged lectures about moral absolutes. He was a good man, an opinionated man and, in most cases, almost entirely certifiable.
By the time November and December 2005 had rolled around, I had achieved enough to be respected in the newsroom: front pages, exclusive news story and a turn at feature writing that some journalists would rather never have to do. I also became friends one young man, Joe, at university whose father happened to be one of the most shrewd (and some would say vicious) businessmen in Australia. His father also happened to own Virgin Blue Airways at the time.
He was a fellow journalism student and had become interested in the story of Van Nguyen, by this stage a story that was earning front pages across the nation. “I want to go to Singapore when he is hanged, I want see how it’s covered,” said Joe during a phone call three days before Van Nguyen was due to be hanged. I thought this was an odd thing for a journalism student to want to do but, he had money and stranger things have happened.
“Why don’t you come with me, help me cover it for your newspaper and I’ll take the photos?”
Notwithstanding the fact I was nominally very poor, skipping the country while I had two work days at the newspaper was tantamount to career suicide.
“Ask your editor if you can cover it and I’ll pay for everything: hotel rooms, flights, the whole lot,” Joe said from the other end of the phone.
Perhaps because I’d had a little bit of wine, or perhaps because I was an excitable young thing, it all seemed like a very good idea. At the time.
Approaching my editor, him with the handlebar moustache you could hang your washing on, the next day, I came out with the proposition very bluntly. He was taken aback a little by my forthrightness.
“I’d like to reward your initiative,” he said in his trademark drawl. “But I’ll have to get back to you with a decision.”
He never did and the next day I was at Brisbane Airport calling in sick.
Sometime later the Chief Police Reporter, whom called me while I was at the airport, would quell the niggling thoughts in the back of his head that he had strangely heard a train announcement in the background. It was my flight.

Singapore is an interesting country, one of the few remaining sovereign city-states. Its population is a whisker under 5 million people, all of whom inhabit a patch of partially reclaimed land totalling no more than 710 km2. Singapore has positioned itself as a beacon city throughout South East Asia, home to big business and important shipping lanes. Still, it’s a rather cheeky enterprise and has, at various times, been accused of stealing islands – yes, islands – from the Indonesians.
Singapore is land-starved and has made a name for itself by reclaiming the sea with thousands of tonnes of dirt and sand, which may or may not explain why the odd island in Indonesian territory has suddenly vanished. While it takes a soft stance on territorial disputes, drug trafficking is another issue altogether.
The country has a zero tolerance policy, which was applied hastily to Van Nguyen shortly after his arrest. It was in this city, with immaculate streets and amazing public transport, that I now found myself. A taxi driver takes us past Changi Prison as we arrive just one night before the scheduled execution and invites us to listen to his thoughts on why the death penalty should remain.
Van Nguyen was carrying enough heroin on his person to make thousands upon thousands of doses for people in Singapore or Sydney – where the drugs were destined. Taking one life to protect the rest, and hopefully discourage drug running altogether, was a valid point of view for most Singaporeans. But not all.
The thing you notice first about Changi Prison is how utterly depressing it is. It sits stark and sprawling on a package of clearly very valuable land, wrapped almost eternally in a swathe of tropical heat which bears down heavy on anybody who has to wade through it. Changi Prison is a hospital-grade sterilised environment of gray walls and slabs of concrete. Guards with automatic weapons stand menacingly at all entrance points. One needn’t be reminded that it used to be a concentration camp for Prisoners of War.
The world’s media are not subtle creatures.
Adorning the outside walls of the prison were satellite dishes, aerial towers and enough cables to stretch multiple times around the perimeter of the prison.
For every journalist and camera operator there were as many protestors – a significant showing in a country that muffles the rights of its citizens.
They were peaceful protestors and lit candles in the dark before laying them gently along the walls of the prison.
I joined the media pack, Joe grabbed his cameras and started shooting.
I spoke to an expatriate Australian couple living in Singapore who rose at 4am to go to the prison, to show support.
I spoke to the president of a Singaporean think tank which argued capital punishment was not a deterrent; a useless punishment.
The media scrum engulfed the members of Van Nguyen’s family who all filed into the prison for final goodbyes. Van Nguyen’s mother would spend the final minutes of her son’s life in a small church not far from the prison. As her son’s death was confirmed, a documentary crew would capture on video the agonising collapse of a mother who has finally realised her son is gone.
This is the stark reality of the situation.
But in a brooding surrealist side-bar story, I was wrestling with a dilemma.
How do I give my (fairly comprehensive) news story back to my newspaper when they think I’m curled up sick in bed?
The following is a now hysterical farce of legendary proportions and is still spoken about at the Gold Coast Bulletin. I emailed the editorial secretary: “Hi, I’m actually in Singapore and have a good story for the paper. Should I email or phone it through?”
The phone call I received two minutes later from my enraged Chief of Staff started with a simple, but unendingly ominous: “Where are you?” It was one of those questions that, for all intents and purposes, was rhetorical.
We both knew the answer.
He then proceeded to set the world record for most amount of expletives used in a single telephone call before making a noise that sounded very much like the 10,000 demons of Hades fighting over the scraps of my soul.
Gulp.
I was reliably informed by my colleagues back in the newsroom (on home soil) that my Chief of Staff had turned a distinct shade of purple before spending hours scouring news footage of the execution to see if he could spot me.
He never did, although I did pop up on an ABC documentary on the subject aired a few Decembers ago.
While I endured a heavier sweat than normal in the tropical heat of Singapore, Joe decided the best way to take my mind off the impending round of meetings when I returned was to imbibe significant amounts of alcohol.
We did so in style, surrounded by a bevy of QANTAS pilots and flight attendants 77 stories up in the Equinox Bar. The glittering lights of Singapore stretched out in all directions and the harbour took on an almost ghostly glow.
You could see where the barges were working on reclaiming even more of the sea, possibly using sand that used to be (more or less) little Indonesian islands.
It was a world away from the trauma of the morning.
And so were my grumpy editors, whom I had to sit down with on my return.
They grumbled a lot about taking sick days unnecessarily (something Bob Hawke would have argued with) and were particularly incensed that I had not gained proper approval.
But everybody else in the office thought the whole episode quite novel.
No cadet had performed quite so brazen a stunt in their first year, nor survived to tell the tale.
They were also quick with the nicknames, Singapore Sling being the apparent favourite.
The Sling is a cocktail made famous by the opulent Raffles Hotel in Singapore which mixes gin, cherry brandy and Benedictine.
Incidentally, I can’t say that I’ve ever tried one.
I scarcely had the time.